Cochamo

I took a stab at putting together a short video of my trip to Cochamo. Let me know what you think! 

Music by: Minus The Bear

Dreams Become True

Hanging in space off the side of Campanile with Cerro Tronador and Cerro Principal looming behind

The last six weeks have been pure joy. I attended my Rock 301 course with the Mountain Training School which took place in both Patagonian Chile and Argentina. We primarily climbed in two distinct and unique areas: Valle Cochamo in Chile and Frey in Argentina. Both places are giant granite playgrounds filled with unlimited climbing for the rest of ones life. 

Our backyard at basecamp in Coyhaique

....And the front yard

....And downtown....get the picture?

As soon as I arrived to basecamp in Coyhaique, we got to work with a 5 day self rescue class in preparation for the serious terrain we would be faced with in Frey and Cochamo. After becoming proficient with leader and follower rescues, we were prepared to head off into the unknown. We flew into Puerto Montt and then prepared for our trip to Valle Cochamo in Puerto Varas. Puerto Varas is a beautiful vacation town situated on the south west corner of Lago Llanquihue with Volcanoes Orsono and Calbuco over looking in the distance. After a night in Puerto Varas, we were ready to make the trek into Cochamo.

Volcan Orsono just outside of Puerto Varas

The view from Camping La Junta in Valle Cochamo (AKA heaven on earth)

About a year and a half ago when I first heard about Valle Cochamo it was described to me as the "Yosemite of South America" but without the roads, rangers, fees, tourists, rules, none of it, just pure climbing. It sounded like it could be a shadow image of Yosemite from the late 60's and early 70's; just a bunch of climber hippies hanging out, climbing, partying, and having fun. This place sounded magical, almost mystical, and I instantly wanted to be there. Somehow I managed to play my cards right and I found myself at the trailhead ready to spend 10 glorious days in the Valley. After a slow 4 hour, winding, slightly uphill battle I had finally arrived to Camping La Junta, the main camping area for Valle Cochamo. Nothing could have prepared me for the views of the 3000 foot tall towering granite domes surrounding me.  

Anfiteatro with Escudo rising to the sky in the middle

Looking out from Anfiteatro to Arco Iris and Camping La Junta

The thing about Patagonia is that it is Patagonia and that means the weather can be absolutely crazy and come without warning. Some of the Cochamo veterans were regaling stories of previous seasons that would have two straight weeks of torrential downpour. Once again luck would be on our side and we managed to escape with only two days of rain. This allowed us to make the three hour treks into both Anfiteatro and the Trinidad Valley to spend time climbing the biggest routes that our ability levels could handle: "The Sharks Fin" 10 pitches 5.10, and "Homo Santa" 10 pitches 5.10+.

Jude and I hanging on "Homo Santa" while Travis takes the lead

Well deserved asado after 10 hard days in Cochamo

Ten days passed before we knew it and then we were on our way to Bariloche Argentina to prepare for another ten days of climbing but this time in Frey. Frey, similar to Cochamo, has a long strenuous hike to the camping but unlike Cochamo most of the climbing is much more easily accessed once you arrive there with approach times of 30 min to 2 hours as opposed to 3-4 hours as in Cochamo.

First day in Frey

Refugio Emilio on the lake

Look closely for the rainbow

Torre Principal in the clouds

We would once again get a break with the weather only having one rain day. We would climb as many classic pitches as we possibly could. The camping is not as cushy as Cochamo but what Frey lacks in camping it makes up for in approach times and numerous pitches of quality classic climbing. The culmination of our stay was two epic days climbing the tallest spire, Torre Principal, and the spire with arguably the best quality climbing, Campanile.

The shadow of Torre principal

Campanile

400 feet to the base of the spire

On top of Argentina

I am now back at basecamp, just about 42 days after the course started. We ended up climbing over 70 pitches in 13 climbing days at Frey and Cochamo. My body is thrashed and I need a rest but tomorrow morning I step on a plane back to Puerto Montt and will go back to Cochamo for two more weeks of climbing with mi amigo Dan from the Red River Gorge. After Cochamo I will be heading back to the states to pick up Bertha for a two month road trip just like old times!

Successful trip! Back to basecamp..

Do the Camel Dance!

Six weeks in Morocco was definitely interesting to say the least. I was in class about 95% of the time but we did manage to squeeze a little free time in and made a two day camel excursion into the Sahara to spend the night in a nomad tent.

We had one day off a week and every day off I would get out extra early to climb some of the tallest objectives around: 10+ pitches of mostly solid (sparsely) bolted limestone face climbing, crimping and high stepping all day long to reach the summit of the selected formation of that day.

I ended up getting sick on Thanksgiving which was quite the bummer as I missed out on a day of climbing but also because our host made an incredible dinner for us including roasting a whole lamb who was marched into camp the morning of and was food by the end of the night. Gives you a perspective of where your food comes from.


Mitch who is a friend of mine, an apple farmer in upstate NY, and a climber ended up organizing to come out to meet up for 2 weeks. Although I was quite busy with classwork, we still managed to get out and climb quite often and when I couldn't get out he was always able to find a partner with someone else in class or a local.. I always look forward to our random meet ups and wonder where we will cross paths next!

The course finished out with my successful completion of the Wilderness First Responder certification. We literally had no time to spare and were on our way out as soon as we finished. I flew back to Philadelphia where I would travel through three continents in three days and four continents within a week. As always, my stay at home was extremely brief and within days I was already on my way back down to South America.

I would return to Patagonia to complete my next rock climbing class (Rock 301). I was greatly looking forward to this class as we would be climbing at a place called Valle Cochamo which I have been dreaming of for over a year now. We would also be climbing at a place named Frey in Argentina. More on that in the next post...

Onto the pics!

The "Ferraris" of the Sahara

The "Camel Dance"

Playing on sand dunes at 6AM

Mitch peeking around the corner

Successful Summit shot!