 |
| On top of Wyoming |
“Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature's
peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow
their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will
drop off like autumn leaves.”
-John Muir
A lot has been going on in the last couple weeks. I came
down with a sore throat on our way down to Denver from Ten Sleep that caused me
to miss the last couple days of climbing before Charlie went back to real life
and his job. At the same time my oil pressure was getting dangerously low and I
knew something was wrong. I made a split decision to leave the fellas in Denver
while I B-lined it to Missouri to have my engine machinist give it a once over.
We spent a day replacing the bottom end bearings and oil pump and Bertha was
set to keep rolling. During this “short” detour I made the decision that I will
never drive I-70 through Kansas ever again for the rest of my life and took
400/50 back to Colorado.
 |
| Dark Star Orchestra in Dillon, Colorado |
Dan went home for the 4th of July so I spent the weekend
cruising around the Rockies and spending time with BB. The night of the 4th was
enjoyed at the Ogden theater in Denver where I danced all night to Dark Star
Orchestra. I picked Dan up from the Airport on Sunday and decided that we were
going to see DSO again because they were playing a free show in Dillon
Colorado. I personally enjoyed the Sunday evening show much more than Fridays
and Dan got his first taste of live dead even if it was only a cover band.
 |
| Royal Rocklette Arete |
 |
| Mount Royal |
We scoured Mountain Project for some near-by climbing and
stumbled upon a place called Mount Royal which is right on the skirts of Frisco
Colorado. MP told us there was a 1500 foot sport pitch. We were instantly
intrigued and had to find out what it was all about. Sure enough there is a
couple 1500 foot sport pitches on Mount Royal but not quite exactly what I
thought it would be. While the climbs are 1500 feet in elevation, it is not
1500 feet of straight vertical climbing; there would be a couple pitches then
scrambling then some more pitches then some more scrambling. We decided to try
out a new to us technique called simul-climbing where we both climb at the same
time on either ends of the rope. The idea is that we can climb faster by both
climbing at the same time and linking pitches together and if either of us
falls, we will be caught by the pieces of protection between us. This worked
out quite well and we finished the route in enough time to make it up to Casper
Wyoming to meet a friend and camp for the night.
 |
| Wild Iris |
 |
| At 103 Degrees BB refuses to move anymore |
 |
| What you looking at? |
Our next destination was Lander Wyoming for the
International Climber’s Festival. The festival can only be described as fun,
fun, and more fun with heaps of climbing slapped in there. We spent almost a
week in Lander climbing in Wild Iris and hiking in Sinks Canyon. Everyone we
met was amazing. Some of the highlights were finding a natural water slide,
meeting Arno Ilgner and participating in his clinic, enjoying the full moon in
a farmers backyard, jamming out at night, trying my first high-line and failing
horribly, and pretty much everything in-between. Pictures and words can’t begin
to describe this week.
“Finding our purpose in life seems to be a difficult process
for most people. Perhaps it's a direction instead of an end goal: always
straight ahead.”
-Arno Ilgner
 |
| Grand Teton is the peak to the left of center |
This past Sunday night after the festival had come to a
close, Dan and I were sitting out in the park planning our next move. Our new
friend from Devil’s Tower/Ten Sleep, Flaco, randomly text us letting us know he
was 2 hours outside the Teton National Park. Decision made: onto the Tetons! We
arrive Monday afternoon and sit down for a late lunch and start to discuss what
we wanted to do. Without much hesitation, we collectively decided to climb the
Grand Teton the following day. The Grand is an extremely iconic peak and only
33 feet shorter than the tallest peak in Wyoming so that was the obvious decision.
Dan and I have absolutely 0 experience with alpine mountaineering and Flaco
soloed the Grand only once before with a friend who knows the route like the
back of his hand. We had to decide if we wanted to rope up or “free solo” it
without protection or ropes. If we wanted to rope up, we would have to spend a
night up on the lower ridge before summiting on the second day; if we soloed
it, we could climb it in one day, if everything goes according to plan. Taking
the more adventurous and adrenaline pumping technique, we decided to free solo
the Grand. We got a real alpine start of 3:30 AM and were on the trail at 4:30...
 |
| 2000 feet of exposure below my feet |
 |
| Pulling the Crux |
 |
| Accomplishment |
After 13 hours, 16.5 miles, and over 14000 feet in elevation change, we
successfully soloed, car to car, the Grand Teton (13,775’ peak) via the
Owen-Spalding (5.4) route. The Grand is definitely the highlight of my climbing
“career” so far. Once again pictures and words cannot describe this experience
except simply as breath-taking. I have hiked the Barr Trail to the top of Pikes
Peak (14,110’ Peak) before but this was my first time incorporating technical
climbing. The way up went fairly smooth besides almost sliding down the huge
snow slopes. At about 10,000 feet elevation I started showing signs of altitude
sickness and had to fight through spells of dizziness to reach our goal. We
reached the peak about 7 hours into our adventure and were rewarded with an
incredible sense of accomplishment and a world class view. Then the fun began:
descending what we had just ascended. The down climb was not nearly as scary or
difficult as we had imagined and everything went according to plan. My knees
started to give out about 5 or 6 miles before the end of the trail and those
last couple miles became some of the most miserable miles I have ever
done; but it had to be done. The sense of accomplishment was worth more to me
than any amount of pain I had to endure to complete this round trip adventure.
 |
| Snow Traverse |
 |
| Nature's Beauty |
Today is obviously a rest day. What direction are we going
next? Straight ahead.
