View from Mctech Arete |
Dan and I decided to skip our end of August plans and shoot
straight for Alaska but being the climbers that we are, we couldn’t resist the
opportunity to climb the Bugaboos in British Columbia. The Bugaboos are a world
class climbing destination guarded by a multi-hour drive and a strenuous 3.6
mile hike with a crazy elevation gain. When you arrive in the parking lot after
an hour long, 35 mile stretch of dirt road, you must wrap the bottom of your
car in chicken wire otherwise the porcupines will mutilate any exposed rubber. The
hike alone is worth the cost of admission (long drive) and is definitely on the
top 3 list of my life. When I think of exploring the mountains, the Bugaboos
are what I think of. Gigantic glaciers guard all the peaks; waterfalls run the
whole length of peaks. For $10 Canadian, you can camp at Applebee Dome which is
the most scenic campground I have ever stayed at and the perfect jumping off point to all the climbing.
Bertha Explosion |
Emerging from the forest |
The first glacier on the hike in |
Dan leading first pitch of Mctech Arete |
Yours truly on the 5th pitch of Mctech Arete |
View on Mctech Arete |
Vowell Glacier |
Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire |
Contemplating the weather |
The weather that needed contemplating |
We spent 3 days in the Bugs but I could spend multiple
seasons there. This is serious alpine climbing where glacial navigation and an
understanding of the weather is a must. We purchased ice axes and crampons and
hit it head first. We ended up only conquering one route: Mctech ArĂȘte which is
a 6 pitch 5.10 classic. We originally had our eye set on the Beckey-Chouinard
(15 pitch 5.10) but it quickly became apparent that we were biting off more
than we could chew. We shifted our focus to the Northeast Ridge of the Bugaboo
spire, a 13 pitch 5.7, but Mother Nature would prevent us from even giving it a
shot. At the end of the day, I have a new found respect for the planet we live on
and I am grateful that I had the opportunity to experience a place as beautiful
as the Bugaboos.
We are currently in Edmonton and are now focused on getting to Anchorage. The only thing stopping us is about 2000 miles…see you there!
Check out this link for more pictures full size http://s2.photobucket.com/user/njt1rider/library/Epic%20Journey%202014/August/Bugaboos